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Frequently Asked Questions

 

Common issues and possible solutions:


 

Issue

Possible Solutions

Buyer is offering low price

REMEMBER: PRICE ISN’T EVERYTHING! It is better to accept a lower offer from a buyer who will actually go to closing than a high price from a buyer who will not be able to close

If the offer is in the high area of your acceptable net proceeds range, offer to "split the difference" or "meet in the middle". This tactic seems inherently fair to both parties and can sometimes shorten the negotiation process.

If the offer is at the low end of your range or not within the range at all, move in small increments; give a counter-offer at just below your asking price. Be prepared to go through several counter-offers with this buyer.

Sometimes asking the buyer how they arrived at their offer price leads to a fruitful dialogue. For instance, the buyer may have done more research on the comparables than you have and have good evidence that your price is high. If so, you eventually have to drop your price - no matter who buys the property. Or the buyer might say this is all they can afford to offer. This could indicate that they are not really qualified to buy your home and you should not spend time negotiating, or that they are short of cash and you should step in and pick up some costs to make the deal work at a higher price.

Buyer doesn’t want to provide a pre-approval letter from a lender or wants a long financing contingency

You must get to the bottom of this type of situation before you take your house off the market for an extended period of time. Explain that you must know whether the buyer can perform and ask point-blank if there is an issue with financing. Wanting a long financing contingency or a delayed closing can also mean that the buyers have a house to sell and are not disclosing this. Ask the question "do you have a house to sell?" outright.

Buyer has offered a low Good Faith (also called earnest money) deposit or none at all

It is natural for a buyer not to want to give an individual a deposit, even though they wouldn’t hesitate if there were a real estate agent or attorney involved. Remember that the buyer is probably just learning this process too. In this instance, you might recommend that the buyer obtain a contract attorney to negotiate the contract for them, since they are nervous about it. In any event, do not take your house off the market without a deposit.

Insist on a deposit in your counter-offer and put a contingency in the counter that the deposit will not be deposited into the closing agent’s escrow account until the home inspection and other inspections have cleared. Another tactic is to accept a smaller deposit with the contract and require an additional deposit when the inspection contingencies have cleared.

The mortgage terms the buyer has outlined in the contract do not seem reasonable to you

Generally, you should not enter into a contract that is contingent on the buyer receiving a certain interest rate and points. Tell the buyer that it is fine for them to shop around to get the best terms on their mortgage, but that the contract has to indicate that they will take "market" terms. This means that the buyer can’t get out of your contract just because interest rates go up - unless they no longer qualify for the loan.

If the purchase agreement indicates that the buyer is making a down payment of less than 5% of the purchase price, this could be a red flag. Inquire as to the loan program they are looking at and be sure you get a pre-approval letter (complete with credit and source of funds review) for that specific loan program from a lender within 5 days of signing the contract.

Buyer wants you to pay some or all of their closing costs or points on their loan

First, realize that any costs you agree to pay come out of your net proceeds, so don't forget to put the figures into the seller net calculation. It is not unusual for the seller to pay buyer's closing costs in real estate transactions. Generally it means that the buyers want to save their money for other expenses or that they are short of cash to close. This is fine as long as your net proceeds are acceptable and the buyer qualifies for the loan with your closing cost contribution.

When a buyer asks you to pay closing costs, and it reduces your net proceeds to an unacceptable level, counter back to them at a higher price but leaving in the seller contribution to closing costs. Again, make sure you get a pre-approval letter from a lender ASAP.

Buyer has a house to sell before they can buy yours

This is a sticky situation. You have to decide whether to accept this contingency or not. You have no control over whether the buyer’s house actually sells, so you are really taking your house off the market and gambling that your buyer's home will sell.

If you are in a good market and you’ve had many people look at your home, you would be less likely to take the house off the market contingent on the sale of another house. Suggest to the buyers that they get a bridge loan or swing loan and that they will need to qualify to carry both houses at the same time. If they can qualify to carry both houses, you can stretch the closing date on your house into the future to try to give them the time to sell their house. That way, they have the time they need and you have a guarantee that they will close on your house even if they don’t sell their current home.

If the buyer doesn’t qualify to carry both and you want to try to make the deal work, find out more about the market their house is in. What timeframe do they think it will sell in and how are they are pricing it? You may even want to visit the house to see if it is in good condition, and in a desirable neighborhood.

If it seems reasonable to you that their house will sell and these buyers seem like otherwise good prospects, you could consider taking the offer, but adding a "kick-out clause". This means that you leave your house on the market, and if you get another offer, the first buyers will have 24-48 hours to prove that they can perform on their contract without selling their current home, or they get "kicked out" and get their deposit back. You are then free to negotiate with the new purchasers.

When you accept a contract contingent on the sale of the buyers current house, always put a timeframe around it, even if you have a kick-out clause in the contract. For instance, you might give the buyers 30-60 days to get a firm contract on their house and 30 more days to close the transaction. Don’t leave the timeframe open ended.

If you exercise the kick-out clause, remember that when negotiating with the newest purchasers, you must make any agreement with them contingent on the first buyers being released from your contract.

We highly recommend that you hire a contract attorney when you are dealing with complicated situations such as this.

Buyer wants an extended closing date

This is only a problem if you can’t or don’t want to wait to close. Find out why the buyer wants an extended timeframe. Is it because they need to save money for closing? Or because they want their kids to finish school in their current location?

If the extended date has something to do with qualifying to purchase your house, then it is a potential concern. Get the details and see if there is another way to work it out. Often, presenting the issue to a qualified loan officer will uncover some viable options for the buyer.

If it is a logistical issue, such as kids finishing school, just decide whether you can wait or not. If you can, accept the offer, but be sure you keep the financing and inspection contingencies short, so you know the contract is solid.

Buyer wants a quicker closing date

Frequently, buyers believe that a quick settlement will cause a seller to accept a lower price or take their offer over others. And sometimes, it does benefit the seller to close quickly, so the strategy works. However, if you can’t close and move that quickly, counter back with your desired timeframe. If the buyer can postpone closing, they probably will. If not, they will reject that portion of the counter-offer and go back to their original timeframe.

Best advice - try to work it out - only very serious buyers want to move quickly. If you already have a contract on another house you are purchasing, see if you can speed up your closing to meet the buyer’s timeframe. If you are purchasing another house, but haven’t found it yet or you aren’t ready to move, determine whether you are willing to move twice to accommodate this buyer’s timeframe.

Buyer wants you to hold financing for them (Seller held financing)

This means that the buyer wants you to hold seller-held financing for all or part of the purchase price. There are both risks and rewards in holding a mortgage for the buyer. If you decide to pursue this, we strongly suggest you hire a real estate contract attorney to prepare the forms and manage the closing.

Buyer wants to do a lease/purchase also called a "lease-option"

This means the buyer wants to lease (or rent) the property for a period of time and then purchase it during or at the end of the lease period. You don’t get your money immediately, so this option only works if you don’t need the equity in your home to make your next move. A lease option is a popular means to sell less desirable properties or to sell properties in a slow market. If you choose to pursue this option, we strongly suggest you hire a real estate contract attorney to prepare the forms and manage the closing.

 

 

Troubleshooting

It is inevitable that issues will arise during the transaction. The key to resolving them is to be pro-active (don’t let your contract timeframes slip) and to clearly understand the problem and your options for solving it. The loan officer, lender and title officer are valuable resources in the transaction. They can frequently help resolve issues.

Common issues and possible solutions:


 

Issue

Possible Solutions

Home inspection reveals deficiencies and buyer asks for repair or replacement

Don’t overreact. Go through the entire list of repairs and separate out what is easy and inexpensive and what is hard and expensive.

Understand what you are required to do (if anything) by the contract.

Get estimates for the repair/replacement so you understand the costs involved.

Decide how to respond to the buyer’s request. This is really a matter of determining what cost is acceptable to you and whether the buyer will actually walk away from the house if you do not agree to everything.

Some options:

  • You can either agree to do the actual work or you can agree to an amount of money that you will credit the buyer in lieu of making the repairs. The latter is usually acceptable to the buyer.
  • You can agree to do one big thing and not the small things. This might be acceptable to the buyer since it is easy for them to do the small things as well.
  • If some of the repair items are not really non-functioning, but rather just on their last legs (for instance, your dishwasher is 10 years old and the inspector indicated that 10 years is the expected lifetime) don’t agree to replace or repair. Offer instead to split the cost of a home warranty with the buyer and it will cover those appliances, etc. if and when they go bad. That way, everything is covered. NOTE: All appliances, plumbing, etc. must be in working order at the time the warranty is placed.
  • If something serious is uncovered, such as joist rot, foundation cracks, leaks in the roof, faulty wiring or plumbing problems, get a second professional opinion. If the problem is real, you have to decide how to handle it. Now that you know of the problem, you will likely have to disclose it to other potential buyers. It will probably come up in another buyer’s inspection as well, so you might as well deal with it now.

House Appraises Low

If your home is priced correctly, this is a very infrequent occurrence

The appraisal is usually ordered by the buyer’s lender and is used by the lender to insure that they are not over-lending. Indirectly, it also protects the buyer from overpaying

The result of a low lender’s appraisal means the lender will base the buyer’s loan amount LTV off a lower value, resulting in a lower loan amount. This generally means the buyer can’t get the loan amount they have requested, or they may have to pay PMI insurance, or they may have to make a larger down payment

If the buyer cannot get the loan outlined in the contract, generally, their deposit is refunded and the contract is dead

If the buyer can get the same loan amount regardless of the low appraisal, then the contract may require them to go forward with the purchase. Check the contract and/or speak with a real estate attorney to determine

Very likely, if the house doesn’t appraise for the sales price, the buyer will want you to lower the price

Don’t overreact. The buyer will have just heard from their lender that the house didn’t appraise for the sales price - the buyer didn’t order the appraisal and isn’t responsible for the result. Also, the buyer will be just as nervous as you are – they will be afraid that they have agreed to pay too much and that they might not be able to buy the house.

Enlist the buyer’s help. Presumably, they still want to buy the house and might be willing to make a slightly larger down payment or have another appraisal ordered by the lender (you can split the cost or the seller can pay for the second appraisal). With the buyer’s help, the lender should be willing to offer some options to resolve the issue.

Ask for a complete copy of the appraisal from the buyer.

Check all the details about your property on the appraisal. Make sure the square footage, number of bedrooms and baths, etc. is correct. Look at the comparables the appraiser used. Do you have knowledge of more recent comparables (remember, they should be of the same size and style as your home) that support your sales price? If any of the information is on the appraisal is incorrect or you have more recent comparables to show to the appraiser, call the buyer and ask if you can speak directly with their loan officer to correct the information.

If the buyer says yes, talk with the loan officer, explaining the inaccuracies and/or new information. The loan officer will pass it on to the appraiser. It may or may not make a difference.

If the buyer says no, give the buyer the information and ask them to pass it on to the loan officer. It may or may not make a difference.

Failing any results with the above options, and if the buyer has the right to get out of the contract, you will have to make a decision. Let this buyer go and hope for another buyer (you may encounter the same issue with the appraisal) or drop your price and go to closing with this buyer.

Buyer is rejected for their mortgage

If you have required the buyer to provide you with a pre-approval letter (with credit, ratio and source of funds review) early in the process, a surprise rejection should be a rare occurrence

Don’t overreact. The buyer is probably just as disappointed as you are.

Ask for a copy of the lender’s declination letter. The lender is required to notify the buyer in writing that their loan has been declined. You are entitled to a copy before you have to refund the buyer’s deposit.

If the buyer received a pre-approval letter, ask the buyer what changed between the pre-approval letter and the final loan rejection. NOTE: If it appears that the buyer misled you or lied to the lender to get the pre-approval letter, you may have reason to keep the buyer’s deposit. Consult an attorney to find out. If the buyer doesn’t seem to understand exactly what the problem is, ask them if they mind if you speak directly with the lender.

If the buyer says yes, have the buyer call the lender and authorize the lender to talk to you. If you call on your own, very likely the lender will not talk with you, which is appropriate since loan information is confidential. Call the lender and ask if there is anything that you, the seller, can do to help the buyer get the loan. For instance, will it help if you lower the price slightly? Hold a second trust so the lender has a lower loan-to-value? Postpone settlement so the buyer can save money?

If there is nothing you can do to help this lender approve the loan, ask the lender to give suggestions as to another company who could possibly make the loan.

If you have to refund this buyer’s deposit and start over, ask the buyer for a copy of the appraisal. You can use this to justify your price to new buyers. Next time, require the buyer to get a pre-approval letter (complete with credit and source of funds review) from an established lender prior to moving forward with the contract.

Termite inspection shows active infestation

Generally, the contract calls for the seller to pay for treatment. Just pay for it and supply the lender and escrow officer with evidence that you have had the treatment done.

Termite inspection shows prior insect damage

This is damage to wood areas caused by prior wood boring insect infestation. Usually the lender will require that it is repaired and some contracts call for the seller to repair it. If your contract doesn’t specify who pays, you and the buyer will have to negotiate who pays for the repair.

Get specific instructions from the lender as to what needs to be repaired. The termite report will have a list of the areas that require repair, have the lender or buyer fax it to you. It is easiest to have the same company make the repairs if they do that type of work, otherwise ask them for the name of a company they recommend. If the work is extensive, (such as joist damage, etc.), get two or three quotes before you have the work done.

Survey shows encroachments

Your title/closing attorney/agent will direct you in a solution.

Title search reveals problems

Your title/closing attorney/agent will direct you in a solution.